Creating Your Own Path & Starting a Business Abroad with Jewellery Designer Lera Treyger

Lera, you grew up in Moscow, Russia. Can you tell me about your childhood and the things that shaped you into the person you are today?

I always say that I grew up in Moscow, but actually, I grew up in Crimea as well. I spent all my summers with my friends and family members there, by the sea. We went hiking, swam a lot, and jumped into the water from the caves with my brother, who lived in Crimea. I felt really seen and understood by him, so the whole year I was looking forward to coming there. Being in nature and going to all the different places with my brother recharged me. It was a huge contrast to my life in Moscow, where everything was about achievements, studying, and working. But I’m very ambitious and enthusiastic about doing and creating things, so it was a perfect mix of those two beautiful places.

This thirst to create something that fuels you to this day — do you think it’s something that was innately in you, or was this seed planted by your parents?

I was actually fighting with my parents (smiles). As a child, I was really active and went to a really nice school. There, we did theatrical plays, created newspapers, organized special events for children. So I didn’t have any weekends at all. I had to lie to my parents that I was going to the cinema when in reality I was rehearsing plays or dancing. My parents forbade me to do all of this — they were worried that I didn’t get enough rest. But it gave me so much energy that it was extremely important for me to continue to do that. I think that now I can lead businesses in two countries at once and manage different people because I had this practice in my childhood.

Do you remember how you then got into architecture? What drew you to it that you've decided to study it at university?

When I was sixteen, I participated in a theatre festival and met a guy there who was older than me. The main event was the ball, so we were dancing and talking when he mentioned that he was applying for architectural education in Milan, Italy. I thought that this was such a cool thing to do! I was good at math and at the same time drawn to the visual arts. So it was a perfect combination of the two of them.

Then it was very intense because the competition to get into the Moscow Architectural Institute is high, and normally people prepare to apply there from the fifth grade. I had a year and a half, and I didn’t even know how to handle a pen in my hand (smiles).

So you made the decision to get into architecture quite suddenly. Did you fall in love with this field immediately, or did you grow into loving it over time?

I didn’t know much about architecture, but I was very open. I enjoyed everything we did at university. Since I applied and passed the exams, I've felt like I had won a lottery. It was such a beautiful building, all the teachers were so cool, all the classmates were so nice… I was really impressed. And in my third year, one of my teachers advised me to work in a famous architectural bureau in Moscow. I wasn’t expecting that, because normally you need to study for five years and get a master’s degree to get a job at such a company. I’ve never even considered working there at this stage, and it just happened.

When you graduated from university and continued to work in the bureau, you started making jewellery for yourself as a hobby, which then grew into a business and became your first jewellery brand. So at one point, you quitted your job as an architect. Was it hard to let go of such a big and meaningful chapter of your life?

Yes, it was really challenging, to be honest. Because you have a certain perception of yourself. As an architect, I did whole housing projects — which is the top in the profession — and have already been a chief architect in my own project. But at the same time, I was very burnt out. It was actually my dad who noticed that and was like, “Look, jewellery gives you so much energy — you go to the markets and sell so many pieces. You’re so happy, and I just see you shining. And then you’re coming home from work at midnight. It’s not normal, you’re just giving your life and energy to something that isn’t yours.”

When he pointed that out, it allowed me to think that it’s possible to quit and dedicate my time to my business. It was very important to me, because now I do what I really love, and I’m good at it, and I can control the scale. Whereas in architecture, you’re just a small screw in the huge system. There is always someone above you. Of course, it’s nice to see projects that you designed being built on the streets, but at the same time it’s never really yours, it’s never your name on it.

Even though you’re no longer an architect, the influence of your architectural past is very apparent. One can see the echo of architectural forms in your jewellery designs, and you regularly share pictures of beautiful spaces on your social media. What is it about architecture that piques your interest?

I think that architectural education gives you a sense of scale and proportions. Once you start noticing these things, you can never un-notice them (smiles). And what I really appreciate about architecture is that it creates a special atmosphere around a person. If it smells nice, if the temperature is comfortable, if the lighting is properly organized, if the materials are natural and pleasant to the touch — our brain automatically reads that. It adds so much to the quality of our life.

After quitting your job, you decided to gain more knowledge and experience in jewellery making. So you went to Antwerp to study goldsmithing at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. What was this time of your life like?

It was very nice and also very challenging — I already had a career behind my back and ended up in the position of a student again. But there were so many creative, artistic people — fashion designers, sculptors, architects as well. Studying there completely changed my perception of the world and the creative process. Before, I had a lot of boundaries — for instance, sometimes I wanted to create something for my jewellery brand, and goldsmiths at Russian production said that it was impossible. When I started studying at the Academy, everything became possible (smiles). I could do jewellery out of anything. There were no dimensions or boundaries. I could really play around with it.

Our main teacher was Naomi Filmer, who is a jewellery designer. She made collections for Alexander McQueen and was a good friend of his. So every time she flew to Antwerp from London to teach us. It was very special because her mindset is amazing — I mean, she has nooo limits (smiles). She verbalized things that you would never even think of, and it really expanded my vision and dreams.

In those two years of studying, you've experienced so much — moving abroad, learning something new every day, meeting all these people and mentors. Did it then feel like you were leaving this amazing life behind when you graduated and had to come back to Moscow?

Yes, I was very sad, to be honest. I really missed Antwerp and wanted to come back but didn’t know how at that moment. I also had to split up with my previous business partner, whom I created my first jewellery brand with. I couldn’t afford to buy the company out, so I just left it, which was really difficult for me. But all this sadness and anger gave me the energy to move forward. So in 2019, I started a new brand, Lera Treyger.

Lera Treyger offers delicate gold pieces for ‘modern muses’. Can you tell me about how you came up with the concept?

I just thought about what I would like to wear myself. At that moment, it was clear that I didn't want to wear silver anymore and preferred to invest money into something precious that is built for the long term. So I thought that if I choose this for myself, then it’s only fair to create the same for others. I made a few pieces and launched the brand. I already had a customer base from my first brand, and my friends were very supportive. So it was a smooth start.

It received positive feedback in Russia, and the brand has been growing steadily ever since. You also secured international orders by working with influencers from different countries. When did you start thinking about moving back to Belgium and opening a company there?

I always wanted to come back, but I needed to reach a certain level to make it happen. So when the moment was right, I made the decision quite fast. But when I moved and rented the store, I was like, “Oh my god, Lera” (smiles). All the accountants from Belgium were looking at me like I was crazy. At that point, I couldn’t present anything to them since nothing was ready yet. It was very scary because it was a different market, and I didn’t know what to expect. It was all new, but somehow I’ve managed that.

Have you ever thought about what you would do if it didn't work out?

I never thought about what I was going to do if I failed. But I wasn’t planning on opening the store that quickly after moving. I was planning on renting an open space and creating everything from there at first. But my dad passed away, and I felt very lost. There was also so much going on in the Russian company, it was really intense, and I had to do something here, in Belgium, since I’d already moved. So when I saw the space, I realized that it was just what I needed. It gave me so much happiness and calmness. Every morning, I went to the store and was so grateful to have it. It is so beautiful and peaceful, and it’s such my place. I renovated it super slowly, just did what I could at that moment, and slowly invested money in painting a facade, buying the furniture, and so on.

It’s now been a year since you've launched your brand in Belgium. How did this year change you? What are the biggest lessons you’ve learned?

It taught me a lot about how to be more patient. Because the Belgian style of dealing with things is completely different from the Russian one. A lot of the things take more time to happen here than what I'm used to. It’s a challenging thing but at the same time a beautiful one. I think this past year also showed me how to properly build business relationships with people from different countries. I now have different productions, suppliers, and constructors. It took me some time to build trust and understanding with them and with clients. Because you’re someone who is carrying a completely different culture, and you’re intervening. But now I feel like I’m a part of this market and of the local community, which is a very important feeling.

That's so beautiful. I think that the power of community and collaborative process is such an important one. Sometimes you don’t even notice how you're growing together with your social circle, but when you look back, you realize that you would have never walked this path as fast or walked it at all if you had been alone.

Yes, one hundred percent. I would have never been able to make it happen all alone. I have my team in Moscow, and I meet so many people here, in Belgium, who are helping me as well. Even my neighbours. They are very welcoming. So it’s important to stay open to people around you.

Do you still find joy in the creative process?

Yes, I really enjoy designing, but, unfortunately, I don’t have much time to do that. Some people think that I’m very creative — and I try to be — but most of the time I’m managing people, ordering something, planning, talking, organizing. But I love creating something with my hands. It gives me a lot of joy and energy.

Is it challenging for you to switch between the creative and managing mindsets?

It’s not challenging, it’s just sometimes I miss creating. But there are moments when I put everything aside and sit down to create a proposal for an engagement ring, for example. I really love doing bespoke orders — taking my time, making collages, and thinking about what I can create. It’s like a hobby within my work (smiles). I also enjoy negotiating, having meetings with the production, figuring out solutions. These are different roles that require different mindsets, rhythms and paces. But as long as not one of them is damaged, I’m happy (smiles).

What is your vision for the future?

Next year I’m planning on going B2B — to put my jewellery in different stores here, in Belgium, and in other locations as well. In the next five years, I’m planning on opening new stores — I’m looking in the direction of Scandinavia, the UK, Asia as well.

And how do you find life in Belgium?

I love being in Belgium, it has a beautiful culture. The art scene is amazing in Antwerp — there are new galleries or exhibitions opening every weekend (and of the world-famous artists, too). At the same time, Antwerp is a very small and calm city, so it makes me feel safe and gives me the opportunity to create. But I also think that I’m at the point of my life when I feel comfortable anywhere I am (smiles).